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Culzean Castle |
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2003 Scotland: Culzean Castle, South Ayrshire
4 July 2003
Happy Independence Day, America.
We're planning on visiting a sample from each of the Scottish regions: the lowlands (today's trip), the midlands, the highlands, and the islands.
We start the morning with another magnificent Scottish breakfast downstairs at the Babbity, then we head out for our first long drive of this vacation. On the way out of the city, driving along the River Clyde, we spotted this crew working on a sailing ship. If you look closely you'll see twelve sailors rolling up the top sail, and six more on the bottom sail. Isaac screamed with delight.
 Today we're heading as far south as we're going to on this trip. Our destination is Culzean (pronounced "kul-een") Castle, near Maybole and Ayr, on the coast of South Ayrshire.
 Its name derives from the word "Cuilean", meaning place of caves; the shore hereabouts is honeycombed with natural caverns carved by the action of the sea. Further down the coast, near Ballantrae, are the caves supposed to have been inhabited by the notorious Bean family, who robbed unwary travellers and ate their bodies. By this means they not only provided themselves with nourishment, but also removed trace of their crimes.
Dwight Eisenhower spent holidays at Culzean Castle with his family and friends and was a frequent visitor to Maybole which he always considered, as he said, "his Scottish hometown". On Saturday, 5th October, 1946, the Freedom of the Burgh was conferred on him by the townspeople. President Eisenhower, in his remarks after the ceremony, said he would "always consider himself a true Minnieboler, if not by birth, at least by adoption".
 Our visit started with us being impressed by the two towers flanking the entrance. As Isaac noticed almost immediately, before the attending adults, was that one is round and the other square. We shuttled back and forth between them, looking up. We're so used to symmetry that we didn't notice.
 On the castle grounds itself are armaments to fend off attackers. The kids' favorite was this small gun overlooking the Firth.
 My favorite view was of these remaining walls and the waters behind them.
 The castle itself is impressive, with the rooms well-maintaned, staffed by well-informed presenters, and completely off-limits to cameras (hence the format of this page). There's a surprise in each room for the kids, but I won't spoil it, should you and your kids visit.
 On the way back to Glasgow from Ayershire we spotted a kids playland / farm showplace, so we stopped. A small number of rabbits, farm animals, and terribly little interaction were unimpressive to kids used to something a bit more interactive. But they loved the farm-related things, of which they can't get enough.
 Isaac was very impressed by this Triumph Spitfire. There's something so British about the elder couple in the low-slung convertible that this picture has become one of my favorites.
 By the time we got close to town the entire clan had fallen asleep, and I was pretty used up myself. Don't I look as alert as can be?
 Don't worry, I'm much more awake on tomorrow's trek through Aberfoyle and the Trossachs.
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Culzean Castle and Country Park
An L-shaped fortified tower house, built by the Kennedy family in the late 14th century, Culzean Castle was given a major upgrade in 1777-92 by architect Robert Adam for David Kennedy, the 10th Earl of Cassilis. (Adam had to arrange for the older buildings directly beneath his new construction to be filled in lest they collapse under the weight of the structure above. ) It stands on a dramatic cliff-top overlooking the entrance to the Firth of Clyde, Arran, and the Ailsa Craig. It is one of Scotland's favorite tourist spots, not much more than an hour from 
When the 5th Marquess of Ailsa donated the castle to the National Trust for Scotland in 1945 they asked that the top floor be given to General Eisenhower for his lifetime as a thank you from the people of Scotland. Ike first came to Culzean in 1946 and was clearly touched to accept this gift.
He visited the castle three more times, once as President when, for a short while, Culzean was his Scottish White House. His longest stay was during his retirement when he enjoyed painting and walking in the peace and quiet of Culzean's beautiful gardens, woodland and shore, as well as playing golf nearby. He wrote of Culzean, "This is a place I can relax."