1995 Eivissa (Ibiza): Fernandito's excellent Sangria

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1995

3 Months

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1995 Eivissa (Ibiza): Fish Monger

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1995 Gran Canaria: Potpourri

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Heading Home

USA

With Dad

Back at Home

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1995 Eivissa (Ibiza): Fernandito's excellent Sangria

Thursday 21 Sept 1995

0800 and I'm up again. Daniel is my alarm clock, although I'm usually roused by the changing of Djamal's diaper, which entails cajoling and gleeful shouts of glee. (Of course, I could have my Newton wake me....) Below is a thumbnail panorama of the guest bedroom (formerly Djamal's room) in Daniel and Shraddha's house; the full-size image is 494 kb. At the far right is Djamal's diaper-changing station, just to the left of that is a window overlooking the valley. Above the window you can see the raw tree trunks used in the ceiling. (Even a PowerBook is in the picture.)

Guest bedroom

1000 I'm on the eastern tip of the island. No, really. The water is lapping at the coastline, only a scant few feet from the wheels of our Toyota Landcruiser. In the distance, on the other side of this bay, is the "Ibiza Sport Club", the resort at which my family and I stayed during our first visit, in 1979.

Before stopping here, at the office of one of Daniel's business partners, we'd been driving around San Antoni de Portmany looking for the correct building. A construction boom of ugly utilitarian human hutches coupled with the historic use of building names (instead of numbers) causes us to drive around asking for the "edificio Ali Bey". We found it with the smiling help of a courier doing his rounds on an underpowered moped. I'd describe its address as "Carrer de Cervantes, numero 33, a Carrer Joan Bosc\u00E0\u". So it goes.

Amidst the rather run-down community I see around me, the Kanya Sunset café stands out, what with its manicured lawn and thigh-high hedges. It's an all-in-one paradise with a pool, volleyball court, sand beach (trucked in), windsurfing school, seating area at the water's edge, palm-covered bar, and inviting "No Drugs" sign in the take-out window.

Just behind stand several abandoned houses, only 100 meters from the water. One, named "Ses Variades", has a commanding view of the Mediterranean. I enter the tiny white-washed building and see its sad state of disrepair. The walls are pockmarked, the windows long missing. A real fixer-upper. As I enter what was the kitchen, I meet a homeless man washing his face in the remnants of the sink. We exchange pleasantries in Spanish and I ask him if he lives in the house. He replies in the negative, and we both look seaward and agree on the magnificience of the view. Daniel beeps the horn and I bid the man farewell.

1040 We're back on the road, this time to Eivissa Cuidad, the Old City. A not-so-quick stop at a hardware store, where Daniel gets 12 meters of roof-edging material, and we're on our way. It looks as though we've got a spaghetti lance tied to the roof of the car. As we approach Eivissa Cuidad I'm again struck by its imposing nature; the Old City rises far above the surrounding flat area, and can be seen from all over, especially down the straight roads that lead right to it.

For the last two evenings I've been rereading Kurt Vonnegut's Breakfast of Champions. What a great book. I've got his The Sirens of Titan in my fanny-pack for tomorrow. These two books are the only English-language reading I've done while I've been here. On the way back to Sant Joan the sky darkens and a few raindrops fall with a vengence. (I notice that I'm getting what I call "Newton Neck" - my neck is sore around C1 and C2.) When using my Newton I find that my gaze is lower than when I use my PowerBook. I've tried to "blind write", but the small area of the Grafitti input window is limiting my ability to write while looking elsewhere.I wish I could resize it to be about four times the size it is now.

We're back at ECO, and the word from Barcelona is "call back at 1600, Ricardo isn't in". So it goes. I go over to Fernandito's, which is full of German tourists huddling inside, avoiding the rainshower. A few brave souls stray away from beer and try 1995 Eivissa (Ibiza): Fernandito's excellent Sangria. Most weekdays Fernandito makes one or another variety of local soup; the recipes have been passed down through his Ibicenco family.

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