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Ma Tante Sumi - "my aunt Sumi" - is a neighborhood dining secret located two blocks west of the intersection of Castro and 18th Streets. Run by Sumi and tended to by a very interesting staff (each of them has lives some great stories), the restaurant boasts a small wine list that'll satisfy all but the deliberately fussy patrons. The food changes subtly with the seasons, but keeps its basic structure.

The most delightful foods - in my most humble culinary opinion - is the duck breast confit appetizer and the crème brûlée dessert. In fact, if you went here only for these two items, and didn't avail yourself of any of the tasty entrées, it would still be an evening well spent.

The cuisine is modern American with a Japanese touch. The salmon nigiri sushi appetizer is the exception rather than the rule. The menu always has something worthwhile for the vegetarian, has poultry and red meat, and boasts a wide selection of fish. Especially delightful - when its to be had - is the Hawai'ian Walu.

The interior is warmly decorated in blond woods; several artists present their work. It's almost always possible to carry on a civilized conversation, although it does sometimes get a wee bit loud (although not nearly as loud as, say, Pasta Pomodoro). The tables are on the smallish side, as is the space between tables, but it all works to your advantage, making it easy to see other diners' dishes before you order. It's hard not to have an intimate dinner here.

Call ahead. With a loyal following and only sixteen tables, reservations are appreciated and sometimes hard to get.