Roma

Cast of Characters

Campo dé Fiori

Caffè San Pietro

Colosseo

Foro Romano

Chiesa del Gesu

Pantheon

P. Navona

S. Pietro

Il Papa

S. Eustachio

S. Maria Trastevere

Trastevere

Bocca Verità

Fontana di Trevi

Museo Vaticani

Villa Borghese

Vittorie

Mangia!

Loose Ends

Desktops

Mangia! Eat!

How often we were bid to enjoy a good meal set before us, and how often we did :-)

Mom & Emil,

Here are the restaurant recommendations for which you asked. I know you'll only be in Roma a short time, so you'll have to work your sightseeing around all these meals :-) Please let me know how it went.

Antica Taverna
Via Monte Giordano, 12
tel. 06.68.80.10.53

On the Via Di Monte Giordano, behind the Chiesa Nuova, off of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, not too far from Piazza Navona

The absolutely best, most Roman place we discovered. Please say hello to Paolo & Michele. The "purses" stuffed with truffles are the must-order.

Ristorante La Carbonara
Piazza Campo de Fiori, 23
tel. 06.68.64.783

Open for both lunch and dinner (chiuso il Martedi) this place has an incredible assortment of choices, and a buffet that lets you try things you didn't even know existed. And it's right on the Campo dé Fiori.

Caffè San Pietro
Campo de Fiori

For breakfast return to the Campo de Fiori and enjoy the outdoor market whilst you sit at the Caffè San Pietro. There are several places you can get prosciutto sandwiches etc. Across the way is a nice gourmet shop, to your right (as you face the piazza from the café) is an alley, down which is a very good bakery.

Il Vicolo
Vicolo del Cinque, 27
tel. 06.58.80.147

Across the Tevere, a moment's walk away from the Ponte Sisto, is a wonderful place for a respite from strolling. The food was delicate, subtle, well-flavored, and nicely presented by a very pleasant staff. [November 2004 update: Mom just took this list to Rome and reported back that il Vicolo is run by one brother, the other brother took over the place across the vicolo (which used to be called Big Hilda, IIRC), and they're both pretty good.]

name forgotten
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

Not too far from the Ponte Sisto is a small piazza with a café which serves freshly-squeezed orange juice. No big deal? Well, when you're there after dark you'll be sitting between pyramids of oranges and flaming tiki torches as you look onto the piazza. Really relaxing.

Hostaria Costanza
Piazza Paradiso, 63/65
tel. 06.58.617.17

(Chiuso Domenica) This eatery, located in the remains of the Teatro di Pompeo, is a worthwhile stop if you're in the neighborhood.

La Taverna del Ghetto "Kosher"
Via Portico d'Ottavio, 8
tel. 06.68.809.771

(Chiuso il Venerdi sera) One of two places I recommend in the old Jewish ghetto. The baccalla, a fried fish, is the prototypical food of the Jews.

Zi Fenizia (specialita Kasher)
Via S. Maria del Pianto, 64-65
tel. 06.68.96.976

Less a restaurant, more an eatery. The pizza combinations are interesting. Another kosher place.

Gran caffè Rossi Martini
Piazza del Colosseo, 3A/B
tel. 70.04.431

Mom's hotel was near the Colosseo. Too many tourist traps over there. This place had wide selection, good food, is across the street from the Colosseo, pleasant staff, and we all liked what we got.

Gelateria Della Palma
Via della Maddalena, 20/23
tel. 06.68.80.67.52

Fiocco di Neve, Gelateria Artigianale
Via del Pantheon, 51
tel. 06.67.86.025

Forget everything you thought you knew about gelato. Both of these places, in the shadow of the Pantheon, will floor you with their presentation, selection, and taste.

Lastly, and not least, is coffee.

Espresso in Roma was very, very cheap, and can be found everywhere. The local drink is a caffè machiatto caldo (an espresso with just a touch of froth), in which the Romans put a spoon or two of sugar. You must have these whenever you pass a café, which can be hundreds of times daily. If you are pregnant, or for males only in the morningtime, you may have a caffè latte.

There are several famous cafés. I'll mention three, without which you will be judged not having "done" Roma. The caffè S. Pietro i've mentioned above. Near the foot of the Spanish Stairs is caffè Greco. And in the Piazza S. Eustachio there are two cafés which have claimed to be the best since Romulus and Remus.

Please print this out and take it with you. Better yet, mark these on your map (to get practice finding street names) and when you're walking about you'll know when you're nearby a good eatery.

We'll be thinking of you while you're over there, and going along in our memories. Bon voyage!

L, I, R, & M

And if anyone can help me out with this riddle: near the Pantheon is a tiny eatery with a huge number of paintings in its tiny dining area. Here are two photos of it. I seem to have lost the name of this delightful place. I would really love to give them credit for one of the best meals we had in Roma. Help!